From what I have seen, they stay on the ground with the radio .

Steve wrote on Aug 6^th, 2009 at 6:48am:


Yes, they had some windy days and Oshkosh and the rain didn't help.  You can see a few videos of it on you tube.

Yes and No, depending on your aircraft. If you have a SLSA then you can only add what the factory offers. If you have an ELSA then you can add just about anything you want.

Since you are adding a 2nd throttle control for training purposes, check with your CFI. Your CFI also needs a way to steer the aircraft and reaching for the lines is usually enough for many. Also, you may need to have a remote kill switch that the CFI can activate.

I was asked recently how to wire a remote kill switch so that an instructor has access to kill the engine. You need either 2 switches or a double switch, that is a switch that switches two circuits with the switch at the same time. Some instructors may not like this as they want to do their own mag check with individual switches.

Mount the switches in a convenient location on the aircraft where the instructor in the back seat can reach the switch easily. Also, you may want to insure the pilot (student) can reach it also to double check they are set properly. Also, make sure they cannot be knocked into the kill position in flight. I like the covered military type switches where you need to lift the lid and then throw the switch for this purpose. Make sure you get a switch that is in the ON position normally and will be OFF with the lid raised and the switch toggled. Some switches have multiple terminals to select how you want to do this.

Run 4 wires from the kill switches to your instrument pod. Disconnect one side of each kill switch and connect that wire to one of the wires going to the kill switch. Find the return wire for that switch and connect it to the kill switch within the instrument pod. Do the same to the other. As for the size of the wire, use the same gauge or larger (smaller gauge number) as the wires currently being used on the kill switch.

With the rear switches closed (lid over switch knob) and the original switches on the engine should run. The front switches should work normally to do a mag check. Also, the rear switches should work normally to do a mag check with the front ones on. If either set is turned off (front or back) the engine should die.

I have received several questions privately from individuals but I may answer those questions publicly as long as the answer does not disclose any private information provided in the emailed question, or the questioner, without permission.